The Nightingale was introduced on May 4, 2012. See the introduction that appeared in the News section of Fairyland:
It didn’t take long for Fairylanders to figure out that the following was the daily sequence for the color of the notes:
F = Sunday /INDIGO
A = Monday / RED
C = Tuesday / YELLOW
E = Wednesday/ BLUE
G = Thursday/ VIOLET
B = Friday / ORANGE
D = Saturday / GREEN
- Note skips a color every day (you will have to gold dust the plant twice to change it to the following note)
- Note changes based on midnight GMT (Greenwich Mean Time)
Use the following link to work out what time midnight GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) is in your area. The UK operates on GMT, except in the summer when it switches by 1 hour to BST (British Summer Time). BST operates from the last Sunday in March until the last Sunday in October. The UK moves its clocks forward from GMT by one hour (GMT+1):
The following thread in the forum confirmed that this was indeed the time that the notes are to be changed:
- A Fairylander on the Forum stated the following as a way of remembering when it is time to change the note in your garden each day:
When you receive the 10 Gold when collecting your 3-hour gold, it is time to change the MUSICAL NOTE! So who cares what time it is… just use the ‘GOLD STANDARD’….
The following updated Fairyland Calculator site offers a GMT countdown clock which, when it is at 0:00:00, is the time for you to change the colour of the note. The site also shows which note is required on which day:
To attract the Nightingale, you need a RFH (Ready for Harvest) Luna Serena. It doesn’t matter which phase of the moon it is (full or crescent). You will also need a RFH Carmena Uniflora, and the note will need to be gold dusted to be the color required for each day, to attract the Nightingale. It is a good idea to have a flowering Dulcia Somniflora in your garden to deter the Singing Bush Lark (remember that you need one deterring plant for every attracting plant, to successfully deter the unwanted critters)
Bird seed on either platter will attract the bird, although a raised platter is better, as it will not attract the pygmy mouse or white mouse (they don’t eat from raised platters).
You don’t need a night sky to attract the Nightingale, any pot will do for the Luna Serena – you don’t need to plant it in a sundial.
The easiest twins to attract are the babies, chicks and butterflies, as you have more control over getting them to your garden, than any of the other critters in Fairyland.
The following advice was posted in the forum (see thread link below) regarding attracting twin babies, now, you don’t have to have only the bubble in your garden, with no other plants, to attract twins – it just makes it a lot easier (this is different though for butterflies – see the section further down on attracting these particular twins). To clarify though – only one bubble at a time, is the secret to twins. A lot of people though, prefer to pull all other attracting plants, and only have the bubble in their garden, with a fully grown mushroom. This can be expensive, in that you have to pull the plants each time a bubble appears, and then regrow them to attract the adults again. I would not recommend this for the elephants, as I found that I attracted twins easily, by keeping the attracting plants in my garden too. The problem with the attracting plants for this critter is that, you would have to wait for the plant to be ready for harvest again – and this would be time-consuming. I would recommend pulling them when attracting ostriches, for example, as the ostrich is a lower level critter. When I tried to keep the attracting plants too, whilst trying to get twins to a bubble, I had a very low rate of success. I kept getting ostriches and wriggly red caterpillars, and I eventually pulled the attracting plants and regrew them afterwards. Luckily they only need to be flowering, to attract the adults again – athough this was a costly venture.
Here is the general idea of what you need to do:
What you need to do is have only one baby bubble in the garden. Then put out two fresh platters of food and keep a close eye on them. Starting around 30 minutes you can start checking for mice/dragons. If you get a mouse or dragon on either platter, dump it and put fresh food out. If the plates get to like 1:10 and a dragon or mouse comes, you might even consider dumping and replacing both plates just in case. The idea is to get both plates to hold for a baby BEFORE the first baby is spotted. If you’re going to get twins, you’ll get them one after the other on each tray of food. If you swap the food AFTER the first baby is spotted, there is no chance for a twin.
If your food was already out and the baby comes on either plate, mid-feed, if you’re going to get a twin it will be the very next feeding on the other platter. If something else comes, you’re not getting twins.
I just wanted to clarify this. Also, there is no alert for the twin so you need to make sure you have people watering because if it’s missed, it will not come back.
The above information can be found in the following forum thread:
Here are some things to bear in mind:
- It will cost you quite a bit in gold dumping food, and removing and re-adding plants as required will require a lot of diamond dust (if you go this route).
- You need to babysit your garden (quite a while in some cases, if the twins do not come quickly)
- You need a really good high level mushroom (pink cap in most cases, works a treat) to eliminate the unwanted critters as much as possible.
- As soon as the bubble bursts, you will not be able to put out fresh food to attract a twin.
- You have up until the bubble bursts, to put new food out, and still have the chance of attracting a twin. To give you an idea too of how far you can push dumping plates: I put out two platters of organic veggies for a baby elephant … the one on the right produced a baby at 1h58 – I had to dump the one on the left twice, as regular ellie’s fed. I put out a third feed 13 minutes before the baby was spotted on the right…….. and when the left platter reached 1h20…. the twin was spotted. The rule of thumb is that, if you dump the second platter before the bubble bursts, you increase your chances of a twin feeding…….. although it is not a given that a twin will definitely appear.
Here are another two forum threads regarding attracting twins:
When it comes to attracting twin butterflies, you do need to make sure that only have one sparkling plant in your garden at a time. When trying to attract twin butterflies, it is best to have a regular mushroom (a pink cap again, is the best for this) in your garden. The supershroom is only required at these levels, to attract the caterpillars. Without the supershroom, your chances of twins are much higher.
What I did at those levels was to set up my garden to get all of the butterflies I needed to completely finish the butterfly levels e.g. I started off getting all the Sunset Dreamer butterflies first – you need 21 of them to completely finish the levels to the Rainbow level. When I did it this way, it cut down on the amount of ruby seeds I needed for the plants required, and how often I had to find caterpillars too (which can be a little stressful). It also cut back on the length of time I had to have a supershroom in my garden for too, and therefore saved on those seeds too. The amount of twins I attracted, were well worth the amount of babysitting I had to do to ensure they arrived.
Once I had all of those, I would then put in a supershroom and get the caterpillars required to move up to the next level. Please note that there is an alert for the twins when it comes to attracting butterflies (but not the babies above). Bear in mind, when two platters are close together time-wise, and someone has just found a butterfly on one, someone needs to water immediately afterwards to make sure that the twin isn’t already sitting waiting to be spotted. I had one missed in my garden because of this. There might not be enough time for the second alert, and if has already fed, it takes very little time for it to be missed completely (under 2 minutes). Twins do not return to your garden to feed again… this is the same for both babies and butterflies. Once they are missed, you miss your chance of them being spotted (bear in mind that this is only relevant to the twin – if the initial alert appears and both babies are missed – the original and the twin, you will have a chance to put out fresh food and try for twins again).
You need the following butterflies, in total, to finish the caterpillar and butterfly levels – to unlock the Rainbow level:
21 RED BUTTERFLIES (Sunset Dreamer)
18 ORANGE BUTTERFLIES (Dancing Firewing)
15 YELLOW BUTTERFLIES (Sunlight Sparklewing)
12 GREEN BUTTERFLIES (Forest Leafwing)
9 BLUE BUTTERFLIES (Mystic River)
6 INDIGO BUTTERFLIES (Moonlight Tranquility)
3 VIOLET BUTTERFLIES (Shimmering Musicwing)
On June 7th 2012 the new nesting birds and chicks were introduced. All of the birds found in Level 1-10 of the Wildlife Guide, were the first one’s brought out. This included the Wren, Yellow Wagtail, Chaffinch, Waxwing, Cuckoo, Singing Bush Lark, Roadrunner, Nightingale and Bee Eater. The challenge was to set up your garden to attract the adult birds, and have them nest in your garden. You were then assigned a task for each nesting bird, to have it lay an egg in your garden. The egg would then produce a chick if the right food was placed out in your garden.
The information for what is required, can be found in the Wildlife Guide, under the Chicks tab.
- You need a fully completed nest in your garden for a bird to nest.
- Only birds that have contributed towards building the nest in your garden, can nest there e.g. if Bee Eaters, Singing Bush Larks, Oriole’s, Blue Jays and Wren’s helped to build the nest, then only three of the birds listed can nest (your garden also has to be set up to attract those particular birds too).
- Your garden needs to be set up to attract the bird that you want to have nest in your garden e.g. you need RFH Carmena Uniflora’s (musical notes) in your garden to attract Singing Bush Larks – and this bird needs to have contributed towards building the nest.
- Birds spotted in multiples of 10 will nest in your garden e.g. the 10th, 20th, 30th etc… Singing Bush Lark will nest in your garden.
- Once the bird has nested, you will be presented with two choices when you click on the nest – You can speak to the bird to find out what task you need to perform, or you can shoo the bird away (NB: this will break the nest down and will count towards one of its uses – there are five in total when a nest is fully completed):
For a list of tasks that you could be asked, take a look at the following thread “Guide to the Chicks” found in the Most Useful Topics section of the Forum:
Below is an example of a task you can be given:
- Once you spot all the birds assigned to you in the task, the nesting bird will lay its egg:
- To attract the chick to your garden you will need the following:
- Set the garden alert in your garden to the time you prefer e.g. 10, 20, 30 minutes or None BEFORE you put the food out – once the food is out, you cannot change the alert time until you replace the food on the platter.
- The food stipulated for that particular chick in the Wildlife Guide e.g. Waxwing Chicks will also be attracted to tropical fruit.
- The food MUST be on a low platter ONLY
- It may take a while for the chick to be spotted if your garden is attracting a lot of the adult birds too e.g. the RFH Apis Melliflora (bee), which attracts the Bee Eater – also attracts the Wren, Yellow Wagtail and Chaffinch. You can grow plants to deter these, but it will limit the space in your garden.
- Shooing a bird away breaks down the nest, and counts as 1 use (each completed nest has 5 uses in total). A nesting bird does NOT count as a use, and therefore, does not break down the nest.
- You can get an incomplete nest if it is gifted to you by a Facebook Fairyland friend. There was one free nest offered on the news page, and if you didn’t take that already, you should still be able to collect the free, complete nest. The uncompleted nest can only be stored once at least one bird has helped contribute towards building it.
- You can see how many uses each nest has when it is in your garden, and in storage, as well as which birds contributed towards building it by clicking on the nest, and clicking on the Show link next to “Built by” – see the first picture below. It will then show you a graphic of all five birds, and list the number of uses left underneath:
- You do not need the plants that attract the adults, to have a chick spotted, once the egg is ready.
- You need multiples of 10 of a certain type of bird spotted in your garden, for that bird to nest. When given a task, you only need to spot multiples of 5.
- You can have more than one bird nesting in your garden at the same time, depending on how many nests are available.
- Once you have a cuckoo nesting in your garden, your garden will no longer attract cuckoo’s. This is not the same for the other varieties of birds.
- If you have a completed nest, and one that requires building, in your garden – the completed nest takes precedence. This means that, if your 20th wagtail is spotted, it will nest, and not contribute towards building a nest. See this thread for confirmation:
- Only the adult birds paired with the Chicks listed in the Wildlife Guide can nest in your garden.
- If you don’t have room in your garden for a cuckoo deterrent, you can monitor when a cuckoo is due, and store the nest until that cuckoo has been found, and then put the nest out again.
- To deter cuckoo’s, you will need one butterpillaflora per nest, unless you have a Violet Butterpillaflora – it will deter cuckoo’s for multiple nests. When you look at the cuckoo in the Wildlife Guide, you will see the following:
How To Keep Out
Deterred by flowering Butterpillafloras. One red (or rainbow) Butterpillaflora will deter all cuckoos attracted by one empty
nest. (Other Butterpillafloras get progressively stronger, and can deter cuckoos attracted by multiple nests.)
- The Butterpillaflora will work if it is sparkling or not – once ready for harvest, it no longer deters cuckoo’s. You also do not need to hunt caterpillars, if you don’t particularly want the butterflies – you can leave the Butterpillaflora to grow for 6 hours, until it flowers on its own (if it is a Rainbow Butterpillaflora, or 2 hours if it is a Red Butterpillaflora). You, unfortunately, cannot diamond dust the plant till fully grown if you don’t have a chrysallis. This is an option for those who don’t mind waiting, and who don’t like hunting caterpillars.
- A complete nest can house 5 eggs. Once the 5th egg has been spotted, the first bird listed as having contributed to building the nest, will drop off.
- The fastest way to break a nest down e.g. if you want a Waxwing to nest in your garden, and you don’t have a nest where a Waxwing has contributed – is to spot Easter Bunnies. Easter Bunnies drop an egg each time you spot one, and all you need to do is to remove the egg – using up 1 use. Sometimes, when Easter Bunnies are no longer available (as they are Seasonal), some gardens will still have them available (they might have been frozen for a while after placing the plant in their garden. They are attracted to a flowering daffodil only. Check the Wildlife Guide under the Seasonal tab, to see if there are still any gardens attracting EB’s.
- First birds to be spotted in a garden will also contribute towards nesting there (the same as it does for building a nest – remember that if there are two nests in your garden – one completed and one uncompleted – it will only contribute or nest, depending on which one is furthest to the left).
- If your garden is frozen, and you complete the task that the bird in your garden has told you to complete, it will not lay an egg in the nest. This can only be done if your garden is active e.g. if the bird in the nest tells you that you need to spot 5 chaffinches before it lays an egg, and you spot the 5th when your garden is frozen – you will have to spot another 5 to complete the task (with your garden active).
To be able to remove fully completed nests from your storage, you first need to change your preferences. To do so, hover your mouse cursor over the mushroom in the top left-hand side of your garden. Select “Preferences” and scroll down to the last section of the pop-up screen titled “Less Confirmations”. To be able to discard nests in storage, you must have “Yes” selected.
Be careful though, as once you have changed this setting you will also be able to discard limited edition pots too. If you accidentally delete one of them, you won’t be able to get it back. It’s best to change back to “No’ once you have discarded what you want, to save any expensive accidents later.
You can only see the different variations of food available when you have an empty platter and you click on it. The following screens (3 in total) show what is available, and the cost of each, under each tab (Regular, Organic & Superfood). Regular and organic food have two rows available for purchase. The first row attracts 5 wildlife, and the second row is a double portion – 10 wildlife). The regular and organic wild berries are purchased with pink gems only.
I have found that the odds of winning when playing the magical mushroom game are increased when using the following method (please note that this is from my personal experience – you are welcome to try it for yourself) – it is best to wait until you have a number of games saved up before using this method:
Start picking 3 random mushrooms (in the example below, I immediately won on the 1st and last mushroom). If you don’t win on the first round, keep picking those same 3 mushrooms until you win two items.
Make a mental note of the 3 other mushrooms, to determine which one’s to play next. I number them from 1 to 5 (left to right). If the 2 items I win came from mushrooms 1 & 5, then I remember to play 2, 3 and 4 the next time round. I keep playing the same 3 mushrooms until I win again.
Once I win again, I repeat the process. I also select the mushrooms randomly – in other words, I don’t always pick them from left to right in the same order e.g. if I am playing mushrooms 1-3, then I don’t always select them in that order, if I don’t win the first time around. The next time I play them, I would pick 2, then 1 and then 3 – I keep switching them up until I win, and move onto the next 3 mushrooms.
My chances of winning using this method is extremely high. Sometimes, you might need to play the same 3 mushrooms a couple of times before winning – do not switch to another 3, in the hope of winning – the above method will help your odds of winning more often than if you always pick random mushrooms over and over.